The two SOD923 fast switching diodes beside it marked, “ T4” – I replaced with Part# CMAD6001 TR that have the marking code, “Q”. Plus I could not find a datasheet for a SOD923F-2 component with the marking code, “PB”. They are inexpensive so I decided that it would be better to not take a chance on the originals and just replace them. The “PB” ESD/TVS diode in Tablet1 tested good with a basic zener test but I decided to replace them anyway. I am very happy with my microsoldering – I am starting to get pretty good at it! And I always use my board preheater when I can.Īs I mentioned at the beginning of this article, replacing the charge port jacks on the tablets did not fix the no-charging problem! So I removed and checked the SOD923F-2 ESD/TVS Protection diode marked, “PB” that I replaced with, “ 5P” – Part# CPDQC5V0CSP-HF. But I will try increasing the heat before I try increasing the air. So, concerning air, I start low and increase it when I need to. Also, when you use a preheater, your rework station can use less heat. But it is the heat that matters anyway IMHO. I like to see where my tip is pointing, especially when looking through my microscope. Plus, I don’t like holding my air tip too far away from the board. It just takes practice with your rework station to find out what the settings are that work well for you and what size tips work the best for each job. Some rework stations have a fan blower for the air and some, like mine, have an air pump for the air. The correct answer is that it depends on what kind of rework station that you have and what you are soldering or removing with it. While I am on the subject of rework station settings, I hear people all the time asking what temperatures and air settings that they should use. So I decided to use solder paste and my hot air rework station at 340⁰C using 40% air with my 8mm tip to solder them onto the boards, with my board preheater set to about 200⁰C. The bar that goes across the back of the charge port jacks make it nearly impossible for me to use a soldering iron without getting solder everywhere. That is a good way to tell them apart from each other so that I don’t get them mixed up. Notice that I got a little bit of solder on the Tablet1 test pad marked, “VCHG”. Below, you can see the new charge port jack soldered onto Tablet2. I forgot to take a photo of it after I cleaned the pads up better.Ībove, you can see the new charge port jack after I soldered it onto Tablet1. Below is a photo right after I removed the charge port jack on Tablet1. Below you can see the other side of the Tablet1 PCB.Ībove is a top side close-up of the charge port jack. The two photos above show Tablet1 opened up, and a close-up of the connecting side of the PCB in Tablet2. After you remove the battery connector, you can take the other three connectors loose, unsolder the speaker wires, and remove the other screws. You can see Tablet1 in the next photo with the back cover removed and lying beside the main body. Just be careful and take your time and you should get the back cover off without breaking any clips or cracking the edges of the back cover. When the temperature of the glass went down to around 90⁰F, I would heat it back up to 130⁰F again.Īfter I loosened up the adhesive all the way around the tablet and placed the picks, I then carefully went around again loosening up the adhesive until I started undoing the clips and loosening the back cover from the body of the tablet. I started at the top right corner loosening up the adhesive a little, and then worked down the right side. I used my steel spudger to get into the gap and pry back the edge of the back cover so I could put the blue picks in. The backs are not glued down on most tablets that I work on, but it is glued on this model. Heating the tablet helps soften the adhesive to make the tablet easier to take apart. I had the heat gun on low and it only took about five or so casual passes around the tablet to get the glass to about 130⁰F. I have my DMM thermocouple taped onto the digitizer so I would not overheat the glass with my heat gun. I was wrong.Ībove, I am opening up Tablet1. I figured that new charge port jacks would get these tablets charging again. The USB Micro B charge port jacks really looked pretty bad, as you can see in the photo below. But when the battery went dead, it would not charge. The battery wasn’t dead in it when my son received it and it played well with no issues. I received one of them the first day that I will call Tablet1 which was dead and the battery would not charge.Ī few days later I received the second one that I will call Tablet2. He asked me if I would take a look at them. My son had two Amazon Kindle Fire 2017 7th Generation tablets given to him by a friend because they would not charge their batteries.
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